“Southern Gentility!”: Jefferson Davis According to the White House of the Confederacy

In Richmond, Virginia, this week, a monumental statue of Jefferson Davis was toppled from its perch by a popular uprising. In observance of that, I am proud to publish a section of Here Lies America that has never been seen before: my visit to the White House of the Confederacy. This segment was trimmed for space from the final manuscript just before publication. 

White House of the Confederacy

The White House of the Confederacy

Just going by evidence, you could say the Lost Cause women’s groups were fanatics. In addition to slapping up thousands of Confederate memorials nationwide, they never stopped hoarding relics. Dutiful members emptied their attics and hope chests of anything related to the Civil War, and in time, their mania had bequeathed researchers with an unparalleled catalog of papers, artifacts, portraits, flags, busts, photographs, and bizarre bric-a-brac.

All of that stuff had to go somewhere, and given the mistrustful character of the neo-Confederate movement, that place was not going to be the Library of Congress. So in Richmond, the former seat of the Confederacy, the Ladies Hollywood Memorial Association (one of the first Civil War women’s groups) saved the former Confederate White House from demolition for the sweetheart price of $1 and turned it into The Confederate Museum.

My visit to the Richmond’s Museum of the Confederacy a few years ago, just before it was renamed as the American Civil War Museum, indicated that now that time has put distance between us and those early fanatics, the modern expression of “Southern Truth” has diversified. Or at the very least, it learned how to trade overt condescension for wording that has the power to seed doubt. One sign at the MoC (“Why Secession? Why War?”) puts the cataclysm down to a “disagreement over Constitutional principle.” It even mentions slave or slavery four times. From the 1890s through the 1930s, the United Daughters of the Confederacy would almost never have put those dirty words on a public tablet, preferring religiously tinged terms like honor and duty as the usual surrogates for human bondage.

The “Rosette” display

The Museum of the Confederacy now adjoins the preserved Confederate White House, but there’s still the heavy perfume of sacrificial romance in the way history is expressed, particularly in a near-Catholic obsession with relics. See the handkerchief that bound Stonewall Jackson’s wounds—it was once blood-soaked, but now it just looks vaguely dirty. There’s a cracked plate that one Emily H. Booton of Luray, Virginia, allegedly used to knock out a Union pillager who tried to eat her butter and rolls; it’s cradled against the wall to better display the hairline fissure borne of resistance. There was also a bullet “rosette,” squashed like a leaden flower, that was formed when a Rebel bullet melded with a Yankee bullet mid-flight in Spotsylvania. It’s a lyrical symbol for a clash of brotherhood but a bathetic way to interpret mutual execution—you’ll find similar collided bullets on display everywhere from Petersburg to Gallipoli, as if the metaphor of intertwined bullets could ever speak louder than the millions of others that found their true marks.

You can still see the sleeveless coat Jefferson Davis wore when he was captured in Georgia in May, 1865. It’s mounted alongside a broadside declaring that the garment disproves once and for all the humiliating rumor that Jefferson Davis was arrested wearing women’s clothing. To the outsider, it seems like a strange thing to get defensive about Davis’ sartorial choices during his surrender, but not in the land of Friday Night Lights. Assertions of masculinity are a foundation of the Southern self-image, and rarely will you find a hero in the pantheon of Southern lore whose manliness has been openly compromised.

There was also, need you have asked, the requisite lock of Robert E. Lee’s hair. To Confederate shrines in the South, a lock of Lee’s hair is what IMAX movies are to science museums — any self-respecting institution has to possess one. If Nathan Bedford Forrest had farted in a jar, I have no doubt the MOC would have treasured that, too.

Visitors may sign up for a tour of the White House of the Confederacy next door. This building was, in no minor way, the seat of slavery, where the ultimate triumph of bondage was planned.

Today the White House of the Confederacy is dressed as a nineteenth-century mansion even though it has lived several lives since then, including as a museum and a schoolhouse. About 25 of us (all white, most older than 50) on this sold-out tour were confined to a waiting room near the back door until the appointed time. Finally, a door on the far wall opened, and our guide appeared.

A woman behind me began to gasp, but quickly converted it into a discreet throat clearing.

Our guide to the seat of the Confederacy was an African-American.

His name was Abdur Ali-Haymes, he told us with an intoxicatingly seductive Southern accent. He told us that guiding here, at what he always simply called “the White House” was his first civilian job after a lifetime spent as an operations manager in the U.S. Army (later, I learned, he had risen to the non-commissioned rank of Sergeant major and was much admired by the United Daughters of the Confederacy for it).

Ali-Haymes’ charisma and obvious guiding talent appeared to come from his delight in the subversion of identity, starting with his effortless power to confound our racial expectations with his mere presence. He could barely contain clandestine glee at repeatedly challenging our expectations about the Confederacy. His interpretation could be said to border on performance art because its central objective was to repeatedly revel in the overturning of assumptions.

With 200 tours a year under his belt, he also knew how to keep the surprises coming. “No tweetering. No setting on my furniture. No touching my wallpaper. No cameras. You can keep ‘em, but don’t flash ‘em in my house.” After taking time to thank those of us who had served in the military, he began the walking tour. “Let those ladies stand in front. General Lee wouldn’t want it any other way.”

It was hard to tell if Ali-Haymes was trying to modernize the Lost Cause or simply filling in the historical record — or if the two are even in conflict. “Jefferson Davis was one of the greatest Americans to walk America,” he announced with relish. “Unfortunately, history has not treated him fairly. If you had been living in the 1840s and 1850s, we would have known everything about Mr. Jefferson Davis, and absolutely nothing about Mr. Lincoln. And now things have reversed. Mr. Davis was such a great American who contributed a lot to this country.”

Davis rejected this anti-slavery design

For one, we were told, Davis placed the statue of Freedom at the apex of dome of the U.S. Capitol. “Had it not been for Mr. Jefferson Davis, who designed her to be placed there, she would not be there.” Ali-Haymes omitted the much nastier backstory: Davis, who in the 1850s was the U.S. Secretary of War, had refused to permit the installation of an earlier design for a statue that wore the traditional Liberty cap. A Phrygian hat represented manumission from slavery, and Davis said, essentially, that proud people who were not born slaves should never have to look at a statue like that. So, at once disregarding slaves and rattling his sword, Davis wouldn’t approve the figure atop the Capitol unless it wore a military helmet instead. A principal fabricator of the final statue was in fact a slave, Philip Reid, who wound up being freed while it was still being made. The antagonistic figure that crests the U.S. Capitol dome was installed in 1863, in the heat of war and five months after the South’s hopes of seizing Washington were smashed at Gettysburg. Because of that timing, the statue atop the Capitol wound up being a potent symbol of the rage of the Confederacy’s defeat, an accidental first member of the Lost Cause women’s groups. None of that information was in the tour.

Ali-Haymes followed that with an impressive roster of Jefferson Davis contributions that were made in the pre-war era, when Southern influence had a white-knuckle hold on national politics: Davis designed the two wings containing the House and the Senate. He came up with the idea for the Smithsonian. He designed the drinking water aqueduct used by Washington. He also gave Samuel Colt a government contract for his struggling revolver. (Ali-Haymes also did not mention what his contemporary, Sam Houston, thought of Davis. He called him “as ambitious as Lucifer and cold as a lizard.”)

Carol M. Highsmith / Public domain

Inside the Confederate White House (Carol M. Highsmith / Public domain)

Still, for shock, Ali-Haymes was a guide after my own heart. He used every slice of information to link his guy to the greater legend of America. For example, he made a point of mentioning that Davis’ war council, which met in this house in April 1862, included a grandson of Thomas Jefferson and a nephew of Patrick Henry—a nifty truth that simultaneously lends a pedigree to the rebellion and reminds you that the leaders of the Confederate movement were well-connected and elite. They were convinced they were classicists, and the direct inheritors of the next chapter of the heroic American tale. We were also carefully reminded reminded us that as the war wrapped up, it was the Confederates, and not the Union, that set their capitol Richmond ablaze to keep its resources from being used, even though the Federals usually take the blame. The North often gets erroneously blamed for the destruction of Southern cities, including Atlanta and Columbia, that the Confederacy actually had a hand in destroying. I was grateful that such shades of grey were part of the retelling.

Yes, Davis was a slave owner, admitted Ali-Haymes, but “a different kind of slave owner.” He never used the whip, he assigned black men to be his business managers, and when they were set free, he insisted they come up with their own last names instead of taking his own. To me, this set a pretty low bar for generosity. If you’ve spent years owning another man and forcing him to toil for your personal gain, don’t expect a party just because he’s finally permitted to select his own name.

As we arranged ourselves in the next room, I asked a tiny elderly woman if she’d like to stand in front of me to see better. Ali-Haymes halted the tour.

“What a gentleman!” he announced to the group. “You let the lady in! Where are you from, sir?” Everyone turned away from Jefferson Davis’ cigar case and stared at me.

“I’m from Atlanta originally,” I said. (Something in his sharpened tone told me I’d better try to fit in. I was about to be made an example of something.)

Ali-Haymes puffed up. “Southern gentility!” he bellowed, pleased that my behavior had sustained his favorite stereotype. “You let the ladies be in front. Always the ladies in front. We Southerners, we pride ourselves in chivalry.” Knowing chuckles all around.

“I see the gentleman here taking notes,” he finally informed the group about me.

Ah, there it was.

“He might be a news reporter, I don’t know.” He grinned at me until the pause became awkward.

I said nothing. I only smiled. He turned back to his tour, but by now I was tainted. Everyone else kept a wary eye on me as a member of the fake media. Now I felt like the very reason he thought we need Southern gentility. There I was, wanting to record information about history. Such a thing is suspicious in some circles.

Both Davis and Lincoln (whom Ali-Haymes unfailingly called “Mr. Lincoln,” not “President”), were structure-averse parents who liked to let their kids rampage wild throughout their respective executive mansions, but unlike Lincoln, Davis paid a price for it. He let them eat whatever they wanted, go to bed when they wanted, and get up at their leisure. He even gave his young son a miniature cannon cast nearby at Tredegar Iron Works, complete with gunpowder, to mow down toy Yankees—now it’s the only toy remaining in the Confederate White House that actually belonged to the Davis kids.

Joseph Evan Davis

Such lack of discipline cost the family dearly. In April of 1864, Davis’ five-year-old son, Joseph Evan, “was left unsupervised, went down the stairs to the east portico,” explained Ali-Haymes. “At that time, it was a two-and-a-half story drop, and he fell headfirst to the courtyard below.” He died an hour later. Several women in our group moaned disapprovingly. In a few years, another of Davis’ surviving sons was yanked out of Virginia Military Institute for sins unrecorded—or more likely erased. “To this day, Jeff Junior has the record for demerits at VMI,” said Ali-Haymes. (“It goes back to his child rearing!” scolded a man in the group, eager to locate an enemy to blame.)

As we left the Confederate White House, Ali-Haymes saw us out the door and once again thanked each veteran for their service to the military—the same federal military that he himself had faithfully served but Davis had spilled rivers of blood to crush.

 

This post was adapted from material collected for my book Here Lies America, which is about how the United States has memorialized its past tragedies at tourist attractions. (You can buy Here Lies America here.)


Richmond’s Robert E. Lee statue shall ride no more: The time has come

Robert E. Lee equestrian statue

It was born in a white sheet. Americans of every color will be there to take it down.

Richmond’s colossal statue of Robert E. Lee was erected 25 years after the Civil War, but it was an early volley of a new war—this one, in Lost Cause propaganda, was the war the South would win.

After a long period of little monument-building following the 1865 surrender, Southern sympathizers turned the Lost Cause into a thundering declaration of identity by elevating their deceased leader into an icon to rival Jupiter. While he was alive, Lee expressed a distaste for such adoration. “I think it wiser,” he wrote in 1869 about a proposed Gettysburg memorial, “…not to keep open the sores of war but to follow the examples of those nations who endeavored to obliterate the marks of civil strife, to commit to oblivion the feelings engendered.”

Nevertheless by 1890, embittered Southern groups decided he should now be treated as the blazing hero of their resistance, a retrospective demigod who was by then too dead to argue. They hired a Frenchman (Antonin Mercié) to design the first major statue to depict the old general in a heroic, equestrian form, more Pantheonic than typical of a West Point grad, and they placed him high above a circle on Monument Avenue, a position that was intended to be both omnipresent and untouchable.

One of the people who loudly opposed the creation of the goliath was John Mitchell, the young Black editor of the Richmond Planet. As a city councilman, he had also voted against using government funds for it.

“The men who talk most about the valor of Lee and the blood the brave Confederate dead are those who never smelt powder or engaged in battle. Most of them were at a table, either on top or under it when then war was going on,” Mitchell wryly observed.

He warned the placement of the Lee statue handed down a “legacy of treason and blood” to future generations. “He [the African American] put up the Lee Monument, and should the time come, will be there to take it down.”

The time has come.

This week, in response to the current American rebellion, Robert E. Lee is coming down.

It was the governor’s call. Richmond’s mayor also announced plans to remove the other Confederate monuments along Monument Avenue, which had been placed there with equal intentions to re-educate: President Jefferson Davis, “Stonewall” Jackson, and J.E.B. Stuart. Americans will no longer have to conduct their daily business under their fiery eyes.

For years, people of every stripe have begged authorities to put these Confederate statues in a museum, like the artifacts of the events that spawned them. They were rebuffed under the bizarre claim that preserving history in this manner would somehow be erasing it.

Now, with the nation seized by protest and reform, Confederate statues across the South are being unceremoniously pulled down by ropes and furious crowds, righteous modern lynchings that rebut the ones that hypnotized the culture that put them up. They could have avoided these ignoble fates if they had just put them in museums years ago, as was suggested countless times, often tearfully.

The refusal to accommodate, to compromise, to listen—well, isn’t that an emblem of everything that sparked the 2020 rebellion to begin with?

History finally bounced back.

The Lee monument’s consecration remarks, in May of 1890, were delivered by Archer Anderson, the connected son of a local munitions maker (the statue was very nearly erected overlooking his family business) that had sold many guns and bombs to the Confederacy. Anderson tried to paint Lee as a merely a dispassionate arbiter of fairness. “He regarded slavery as an evil which the South had inherited and must be left to mitigate and, if possible, extirpate by wise and gradual measures.”

All right, then. Let’s indulge that disingenuous dedication depiction of slaveowner Robert E. Lee and see it to its logical conclusion.

I now leave it to my fellow Southerners to mitigate those Confederate statues. Now it is possible to extirpate them as foretold, to fulfill the destiny as laid out by the statue’s dedicator.

The remedy has certainly been gradual in coming; now it is wise, too.


Anthony Bourdain—My Lost Interview

One of the many destructive realities of working in a corporate-dominated economy, besides the political graft that’s dismantling democracy, is that corporations have no interest in memory. The one that originally published this interview I did with Anthony Bourdain in February 2011 has already purged it from its archives in pursuit of other failed projects to write off its taxes.

So consider this is a salvage operation. The corporation discarded it, so it’s fair to assume it doesn’t want it anymore. Here is the article in full. Bourdain’s off-the-cuff brilliance and wisdom deserve to be remembered.

Anthony Bourdain: America’s Falling Behind (and I’m Afraid of Sandra Lee)

Anthony Bourdain (1956–2018)/ Travel Channel

Anthony Bourdain (1956–2018)/ Travel Channel

The effervescently opinionated Anthony Bourdain, an erstwhile drug addict and chef, sprang to literary fame as an observer of the culinary world, but now he’s one of the most well-known travel writers in the country. Since 2005, his Travel Channel anthology No Reservations has consistently been the best-written travelogue series on television, and this week, it begins its new season with a powerful episode shot in post-quake Haiti, where he learns to re-evaluate easy notions of altruism in the face of social chaos. His travels have realigned his perception of American values, too.

JC: Being 6′ 4″, you must have noticed how travel has changed over the recent years. With the airlines squeezing their pitch, you must have much less room than you did years ago.

AB: We do a lot of little puddle-jumpers, internal flights, so yeah, that’s not so great. But politically speaking, Americans are more welcome in more places. Western Europe has become a little easier. Travelers are also much more foodie now. There are real gastrotourists out there, so I notice they’re not as surprised when Americans show up and want to try things that Westernerns used to not ever want to touch. You also see how fast Asia and China are outpacing us as far as high-speed rail, the quality of their chain hotels, infrastructure, telecommunications. It’s kind of dismaying when you come home and you ride an American carrier. You get spoiled in the East.

JC: It’s almost as if travel hasn’t changed enough.

AB: Traveling domestically hasn’t changed at all. If anything, it’s gotten worse. Traveling internationally, you go to a Western chain hotel in Beijing or Shanghai, they are swank. The level of luxury is extraordinary. The same hotel in the States, not so good. Not good at all.

(more…)


List of National Park units on Twitter (Updated)

National Park Service logo from Wind Cave National Park

Some rangers are still searching for Twitter instructions in their Mission 66 manuals (NPS crest at Wind Cave NP in South Dakota)

Because of Trump’s unprecedented attempt to gag the Americans who maintain these parks from expressing their own expertise, I will be updating this over the coming days. Check back, and feel free to add updates/suggestions to the comments! —JC (26 January 2017)

+++++

Most National Parks and National Historic Sites are now on Twitter, and the daily outpouring of American history, alluring photos, and new discoveries at the parks near you makes for a good addition to your stream which, if it’s like mine, spends too much time stomping around in kittycat images and Russian Trumpbots.

Many of the National Park Service streams are often tended by people—experts in their fields—who get excited about nature and history and have a passion for protecting the places held in the public trust. For example, the African Burial Ground (a delightfully active one for such a small site) might share a resource for researching your slave ancestors in Virginia or link to a database that details the machinations of the slave trade. Other feeds may be manned by rangers who can answer history questions for you.

But now these forums are under attack from the Trump Administration, which is attempting to control their messages. Now is the time to show your support to these rangers and these sites by following them.

In addition to these, follow the covert tweetings of @AltNatParkSer, which calls itself the “Unofficial ‘Resistance’ team of U.S. National Park Service. Not taxpayer subsidised!”

 

(more…)


Rudolph Valentino Died 90 Years Ago Today (So the Woman in Black Returned)

Valentino's Woman in Black

The Woman in Black at the 89th annual Rudolph Valentino Memorial, August 23, 2016

Rudolph Valentino died 90 years ago today, aged just 31 and still smoking hot, and as they have done for 89 years since, his fans gathered at 12:10 pm in the mausoleum at Hollywood Forever Cemetery to pay tribute–songs, praise, sermons about the eternal life of fame.

For decades, a mysterious woman in black would show up at the event, deliver a single rose, and vanish. Her identity was eventually revealed to be Ditra Flame (“FLAH-may”), to whom the gallant actor had been kind when she was a sickly little girl. Flame eventually had to stop attending because so many competing Women in Black began showing up.

At the event today, a film crew jostled to catch everything. The Woman in Black in attendance was chased by two cameramen and a boom mic and cornered as she stood before Valentino’s niche. She might even have been one of them.

But Americans today seem mostly unable to feel empathy for a past they didn’t experience themselves. The ritual may be weird, but I love it. It’s rare to see people work hard to keep a few lights from the past illuminated.

It may seem meaningless or trivial, but it’s a way of recognizing that other lives were just as real as our own.

Woman of Black at Valentino's crypt

The mysterious Woman in Black waits for the director to get the best shot of her lovelorn penitence.

Valentino memorial keyboadist

Keyboardist at the Valentino Memorial. Sitting among the ashes of the departed, he played the hits of Andrew Lloyd Webber and “Wind Beneath My Wings.”

IMG_0129

The Heartthrob Remembered near the place of his interment

 


What Will Become of the Home Where Walt Disney Lived When He Was a Loser?

In July 1923, young Walt Disney arrived in Los Angeles and moved into this little Craftsman home, 4406 Kingswell Ave. His uncle and aunt lived there and charged him $5 a week for room and board. The Disney studio really began in the garage out back, the only work space he could afford.

It’s not often remarked that this modest house was just one block west of the famous Vitagraph film studio—on the left in the picture below, you can see a yellow building on its lot—which must have thrilled and frustrated the young man who was so desperate to break into the business that he paid his uncle to slave away in a hot shed.

Disney loved the neighborhood, Los Feliz, and he moved at least four more times in the same area before his status earned him a spread near Beverly Hills. Earlier this year, this house was sold. It was a private sale; it never went on the market, and the buyers had no idea about its importance to American cultural history; the previous owner has been ill and had resorted to renting it.

That’s why it took everyone by surprise when a demolition permit was granted for this coming November. After all, only last year it was declared eligible for landmark status. Preservationists are scrambling. Besides appealing to the new owners’ better (or mercenary) nature, one option is to dismantle it and move it to a museum. Or, given its stature in pop culture, somehow buy it back as a tourist attraction; had the public known it was for sale, that’s what would have happened.

Perhaps the home’s benefactor will be, ironically, the former Vitagraph Studios that tempted a nobody named Walt Disney from behind its gate at the end of his street. That studio, the one forbidden to young Disney, is still working. It’s now known as Prospect Studios. And its owner is called The Walt Disney Company.

Dreams do come true, and sometimes wilder than anyone could have imagined them, but sometimes they have to lay dormant—or get left behind, or rot, or even be given to someone else—for a long time before they can.

Walt Disney home Kingswell, Los Angeles

Walt Disney’s first home in Los Angeles. He rented the shed in the back yard. Glamour!


The Crowd in the Streets of Dallas

Portions of this post were adapted from my book Here Lies America, which is about how the United States has memorialized its past tragedies as tourist attractions. (You can buy Here Lies America here.)

 

In the winter of 1910, Dallas was suffering a crime wave of purse snatchings and assaults. The police didn’t know how to stop it, and people were hungry for blame.

One night amid this crisis, a 68-year-old servant named Allen Brooks was discovered in a barn outside of town in the company of 3-year-old Ethel Huvens. The record doesn’t state they were doing anything more nefarious than playing patty cake, but Ethel had been missing, and Brooks was a black man. And then there was the matter of the blood smeared on her legs.

Fearing a mob, the authorities did the fair thing: They hid Brooks away for a week while they waited for his trial.

The day of Brooks’ hearing arrived. But the people of Dallas were enraged and turned against the police. Feeling terrorized by the crime wave, they blamed police for dragging their feet. They demanded action. In a building facing what is now Dealey Plaza in downtown Dallas, more than 70 officers were needed to escort him to a courtroom on the second floor.

Before Brooks could respond to the charges against him, the mob stormed the courthouse—snapping the heavy chains that had been strung across Grand Staircase to stop them. Furious citizens, insane with rage, filled the courtroom, heedless of the police’s shouts for them to stop, and found Brooks shielding himself in a corner.

They tied a rope around his neck. The other end of the rope was fed through a window to the braying throng below, which hoisted it until Brooks was dragged kicking and clawing across the courtroom floor. He jerked through the glass and was yanked headfirst to the sidewalk below.

If the fall killed him, we will never know for sure. Because once they had him, the stamping mob “crushed his face into a pulp,” as a bystander reported, and dragged his body for blocks down Main Street—past Market, past Lamar. They stopped by an arch at Akard Street that was left over from an Elks convention two years before. Never pausing, they hanged his body from a telephone pole. The cheers of 10,000 people rang through the streets of Dallas’ central business district.

This happened in nearly the exact same spot as what happened last night.

Estimated to number at least 3,000, now the mob was empowered. It surged back down Main Street to the jail, also on today’s Dealey Plaza. They seized steel rails to batter a path inside, braying for the execution of four more accused criminals, three black and one white.

“The firemen were called out and attempted to disperse the crowd with water,” reported The New York Times, “but the threat to lynch them caused a quick withdrawal. Then dynamite was displayed, and the word passed that the jail would be blown up if the garrison held out much longer.” Officers had just enough time to race the four prisoners to safety by automobile in Fort Worth.

Dallas was in shock over what it had done. The mayor had to close all 220 of its saloons and mobilize the Texas National Guard.

But the incident was made minor. Despite 10,000 witnesses, no one was charged with a single crime.

A photograph of the mob surrounding Brooks’ broken body, dangling in the middle distance from the telephone pole, became a popular postcard traded by white supremacists—postcards of negro murders were considered powerful declarations of warning by white nationalists.

Brooks’ lynching became not a lesson but a souvenir, yet despite the meaning of the word souvenir it was not remembered beyond its generation. Even now, few in Dallas would even believe it happened, that its people would be capable of such a thing. No one bothered to put up so much as a plaque.

“Man, you’re talking about the bloody teens and the bloody ’20s,” said Darwin Payne, a journalist who researched the Brooks lynching, to the Wilmington Morning Star in 1999. “This was home to Klan Chapter Number 66, the largest in the country.” Texas was, after all, a slaveholding state, and in 1860, a third of its population was in bondage, which is not something Texans generally brag about when they’re boasting about their ten-gallon heritage.

Years after the horror, in our own times. Payne made a terrible discovery. While digging around archives on the history of Dallas, he discovered one fact that had never surfaced: A professional enemy of Brooks’, a rival servant in the same house, privately admitted to smearing chicken blood on the child’s leg in a plot to trick police into believing his enemy had harmed her.

Beside the Old Red Courthouse, where the luckless Brooks was seized, Main Street folds into Dealey Plaza, and this is where, decades later, Senator John F. Kennedy arrived in Dallas with his running mate, Senator Lyndon B. Johnson. They were greeted by a marching band and another Dallas crowd—this one not lusting for vengeance but cheering its welcome to the affable candidates.

They walked up Main Street, stopping by the place where Brooks’ mutilated corpse had hanged a half century before. Some of the older people had been in the crowd that awful day, too.

Today, Dallas was all smiles. Kennedy greeted them, drew a breath, and delivered a speech.

It was September 13, 1960. He would return to this place.

It happened in Dallas.

It happened in Dallas.

 

Portions of this post were adapted from my book Here Lies America, which is about how the United States has memorialized its past tragedies as tourist attractions. (You can buy Here Lies America here.)


Why are there Confederate Flags in Times Square station?

Dixie on 42nd Street

Dixie on 42nd Street

This post was adapted from my book Here Lies America, which is about how the United States has memorialized its past tragedies as tourist attractions. (You can buy Here Lies America here.)

 

If you doubt just how widespread the reach of the United Daughters of the Confederacy was (see yesterday’s post for that), go into any 42nd Street entrance at Times Square subway station, the nucleus of New York City’s transportation network, and look up.

The tile mosaic ceiling trim running throughout the concourse depicts, at regular intervals, a hanging Confederate battle flag.

Adolph S. Ochs, the publisher of the New York Times from 1896 to 1935, built the skyscraper over the station (which opened on the subway’s first day of service in 1904). He was one of the most powerful men in New York City, and also he happened to be the son of Bertha Levi Ochs, a Bavarian-born Jew, Confederate, and charter member of the UDC.

Bertha was once arrested for trying to smuggle drugs to Confederate soldiers in a baby carriage. In her later years, she vindicated herself by throwing herself into the UDC. She died in 1910, near the peak of the group’s powers in changing landscapes and textbooks alike, with full funeral honors from the group—she refused to allow her casket to be draped in the U.S. flag, insisting on the Stars and Bars.

The original color scheme, before restoration 20 years ago.

The original color scheme, before restoration 20 years ago.

In 1917, during an expansion of the station, the head architect, Squire J. Vickers, and his head tile man W. Herbert Dole, appear to have tried to please Ochs by embedding Confederate flags throughout the train station beneath the headquarters of New York’s “Gray Lady” newspaper.

IMG_1594

It’s gone over New Yorkers’ heads for decades.

The MTA objects a little too quickly to this discovery. “It is a geometric pattern, not a flag design, and has no reference to anything beyond a pattern,” said spokesman Kevin Ortiz. “Similar patterns in other palettes of colors are found in various subway stations.”

But despite its official protests, there is no way for the MTA to know for sure. Two years ago, I spent several hours going through the Vickers pages at the MTA’s archive in downtown Brooklyn, but neither Vickers nor Dole left behind any notes that hint at why the Confederate flag motif was chosen. The documentary evidence doesn’t support a definitive denial, but paying tribute to a moneyed patron has always been a solid reason.

It’s also said that when Ochs died in 1935, the UDC sent a pillow embroidered with the rebel flag to be placed in his coffin, sending the Confederate flag to lay beside the publisher of the New York Times for eternity.

What all of this means is that for a century, starting within living memory of the Civil War, a Rebel flag has flown proudly over the heads of unsuspecting Yankees.

Confederate flags in Times Square subway

Look up, Dixie Land.

 

This post was adapted from my book Here Lies America, which is about how the United States has memorialized its past tragedies as tourist attractions. (You can buy Here Lies America here.)

Click here to read about another secret in plain sight in the Times Square subway station: the Knickerbocker Door.


The Brilliant Women Who Popularized the Confederate Flag and Rewrote American History (Literally)

This post was adapted from my book Here Lies America, which is about how the United States has memorialized its past tragedies as tourist attractions. (You can buy Here Lies America here.)

More on this flag later.

More on this flag later.

Although America’s Civil War battlefields are wracked with memorials, few of us take the time to notice the dates that are actually on them. Pay close attention, and you’ll suddenly realize that although the war ended in 1865, only a handful of statues went up in the 1870s and 1880s.

The first major Confederate monument, of Stonewall in Richmond, wasn’t even American in origin. It was spearheaded by an Englishman, executed by an English sculptor, and went up in 1875 with a KKK-organized opening ceremony that didn’t so much as invite the Virginia legislature because it was integrated at the time and the benefactors didn’t want black people there. Construction of most Civil War memorials actually didn’t mushroom until later, thirty years after the last bullet, when the war had calcified into legend and an incredible group called the United Daughters of the Confederacy, or the UDC, arrived to spin that legend into a new definition.

The United Daughters of the Confederacy was founded in 1894 by a young generation of motivated Southern socialites bent on rehabilitating the reputation of their depressed and war-crushed parents. To call these women determined would be patronizing to both their breeding and their brains.

Put simply, the United Daughters of the Confederacy — allegedly powerless, allegedly on the losing side of a bitter war, allegedly merely female — directed the most powerful public relations movement that America has known.

Confederate memorials at battlefields. Confederate names on American street signs. The lone Confederate stone soldier brandishing his gun on prestigious real estate in front of nearly every small town courthouse in the Southeast. They were all UDC projects. You’ve seen plenty of the UDC’s work—there thousands of examples across the landscape—but you probably didn’t read the legends close enough to realize it all originated with them.

The women’s groups’ most salient work was in partisan memorials. Their postcard-ready monuments converted many an ignored field into a shrine of pious pilgrimage. Although UDC chapters often rose from some of the country’s most impoverished districts, they made sure the Lost Cause counterpoint was articulated in the biggest, if not several of the biggest, monuments on the landscape at the nation’s most important historical tourism sites. Gettysburg, Antietam, Shiloh, the Confederate capital of Richmond, and Petersburg were given close attention because of their fame, but all you need to do is you name a Civil War tourist site and you’ll find the UDC canvassed it for top prominence.

Greene Country, Georgia Confederate memorial

The Confederate Veteran memorials that are so familiar in American towns were standardized by a brilliant PR machine run by women. (Greene Country, Georgia)

The women of the UDC charmed or cajoled funds out of neighbors and politicians alike, and if they found resistance at any level, they would shame their opponents in the local press. “Surely the finger of scorn will not be pointed at Oconee [County] any more,” scolded Marye R. Shelor in her appeal for donations in one South Carolina paper. “It is the only county where the women have not banded together to preserve the history and care for the soldiers… Ask her to do as your father did—offer yourself to your country.” Having a UDC chapter in your town was like living next door to Patty Simcox from Grease. If high society in one county erected a shaft, their jealous sisters in the next county demanded to follow.

The UDC gave its members the handbooks they needed to duplicate approved propaganda in their own communities. Memorials could be ordered from a catalog supplied by the United Daughters of the Confederacy. If your town didn’t have much money, you could order a mass-produced one and the well-placed ladies of the association would charm and hector the appropriate civic leaders until it was installed in a conspicuous location — not in the cemetery where memorials to the dead usually belong, but in public squares where children were likely to see it on the way to school. In Greenville, South Carolina, the stone soldier of one half-hidden memorial was literally held ransom in a nearby barn until the state Supreme Court was pressured into decreeing his roost should be somewhere more prominent. The UDC’s approved sculptors consisted mostly of European-born artists who cared less about causes than commissions, such as Germans Rudolf Schwarz and Frank Teich, and Italian Pompeo Coppini, who openly criticized anything mass-produced. He complained that Confederate societies too often tossed up poor workmanship under the cover of sanctity: “It is easy to influence small communities to give parks or other utilitarian projects for memorials, as the small masses are not educated to art appreciation,” he sniffed.

United Daughters of the Confederacy, 1912

Some founding members of the United Daughters of the Confederacy enjoying the high social status of their elder ages, 1912

The UDC’s highest-ranking members were the high-born wives and daughters of the South’s most established men — in typical society style, they referred to each other by their husbands’ names, a not-so-subtle reminder of each member’s connections to local wealth and power. Lacking the ability to vote themselves, the women threw their weight into influence and lobbying. There was nothing unseemly in it. “Honoring soldiers” fell within the bounds of their paternally ascribed role as caretakers of men and children.

This is what the UDC wanted everyone to believe:

Southerners once lived in a harmonious and functional society of whites and blacks working together and they believed in the Constitution as the Founding Fathers wrote it. They died for those principles when the North tried to force them to do things that weren’t in that Constitution. The battle was not directly about slavery but a battle to maintain a state’s rights to preserve its own economic system.

If you’ve heard this capsule ideology before, it’s because the UDC, and a few lesser groups, so brilliantly fused it to the national narrative, erecting it in civic spaces and weaving it into textbooks, that now even astute historians have given it berth. The Daughters’ principles are now known as “The Lost Cause.”

Their re-education drive was as total as Sherman’s War. The UDC brandished wistfulness like a weapon. The ladies held essay contests, fiddling contests, bake sales, concerts, barbecues, rummage sales, and penny drives. The group funded scholarships homes for the Confederate aged, too, but the heart of its mandate was generativity, to inculcate the next generation with the glories of the Old South, so they targeted kids as their most important audience. Through local chapters and neighbor-on-neighbor pressure, it convinced teachers to read only from UDC-approved textbooks that published “true history” (its phrase), and it persuaded school boards to ban books that implied Confederates had erred. They hung portraits of Robert E. Lee to lord over classrooms from Florida to New England.

The UDC always orchestrated unveilings to be the social highlight of the year, if not the decade. Balls were thrown, school was cancelled, Main Streets were draped in red and white bunting, parades were mounted, and one lucky child was selected, with much anticipation and fanfare, to pull the cord that dropped the sheet on the
new installation.

The UDC invariably mustered young children to lead ceremonies. One UDC motif at countless festivities was the use of thirteen girls, each proudly wearing a sash representing a Confederate state. One unveiling in New Orleans featured a “living” Confederate flag composed of 576 pupils dressed in red and white; and there’s an archive image from Richmond, Virginia, that depicts a throng of very young schoolchildren laboriously dragging a heavy cart carrying a finished statue of Jefferson Davis, looking like a workhouse’s worth of toiling orphans from a bus-and-truck production of Oliver!.

Their poetic rants and abstract vocabulary coalesced against an unspecified danger. They used heightened words of pseudo-heroism— valorhonorprinciples, and glory — that noticeably never specified the details of what their team was fighting about. And yet, they passionately believed in the cause of whatever apparently needed to be done, and that the bloodletting was totally worth it.

Few Northerners had the nerve to deride the UDC’s professed mourning— the country had seen enough conflict and was on to conquering the seas — so these activist women were able to steam along unchallenged as long as they laced their insurrectionist teachings with sweet words, carving thoughts in stone to make them seem definite, riding into the history books on a Trojan horse of honor.

 January, 1909, edition of 'Confederate Veteran

The cover of the January, 1909, edition of the UDC’s ‘Confederate Veteran.’ Note the many stories about monument fundraising.

The UDC used a Nashville booster newspaper called The Confederate Veteran as its de facto house organ to broadcast and chronicle its assorted drives, folklore, dedications, and condemnations. Members saw it as the perfect place to publish memories that would otherwise be lost to time, which makes it a bonanza, sometimes embarrassingly so, for researchers in Southern history. Annual volumes could top 600 pages of sparingly illustrated fine print. The advertisements contained pitches for temperance products, battle flag pins, and far more damning mail-aways. For many months, this eye-catcher was among its regularly appearing classifieds:

“KU KLUX KLAN.

This booklet, published by the Mississippi Division, U.D.C., to be sold and all proceeds to go to erection of monument at Beauvoir, Miss. (home of Jefferson Davis), to the memory of Confederate Veterans, contains absolutely correct history of the origin of this famous Klan. Price, per copy, 30 cents, postpaid.”

In an article in the December 1910 issue, Mrs. S. E. F. Rose, the division president who published the booklet, boasted that the Veteran had already helped sell the volume in 33 states and China. She also furnished a version of her Klan history that was “in suitable form for school study.” The sales funded a monument arch in Biloxi that was consecrated in 1917. (Her memorial was torn to pieces by Hurricane Katrina, but Mississippians painstakingly reassembled it. You can still go see it. To this day, Harrison County promotes an annual Confederate Memorial Day there. Bring wreaths and a potluck lunch.)

My favorite figure from the UDC, and there were many colorful crusaders, was Mildred Lewis Rutherford, the erstwhile school principal from Athens, Georgia who wrote the impassioned pamphlet defending Captain Henry Wirz of Ft. Sumpter. “Miss Millie,” as she was called, was 10 when the war broke out, and she spent the rest of her life re-living it. Miss Millie was revered throughout Dixie for her scrapbooking skills, and well into World War I, she indulged a queer penchant for wearing the 1850s hoop skirts of a Southern belle. Her mother had run an LMA, the less radical precursor to the UDC. When she died, Mildred took that over and also jumped into the UDC with an intimidating intensity, becoming historian-for-life of the Georgia Division of the group, and prodigiously delivering both speeches and new manuscripts wherever she went.

Mildred Rutherford, or "Miss Millie"

Mildred Rutherford, or “Miss Millie”: UDC Superstar

She was a prolific thinker, building a successful career writing UDC-approved school textbooks such as The South in History and Literature, a reader making a not-altogether-unreasonable case for the strength of Southern writers, plus ample detours into the political inculcation of Southern children: “This is the story: The South never violated the Constitution, That instrument conceded to each State the right to conduct its own affairs. The Constitution was violated by the North, as the many amendments necessary after the war proved.”

By 1911, Miss Millie was appointed the Historian General of the entire UDC for half a decade. Activism was one of the only ways a respectable woman such as Miss Millie could flex political muscles. In fact, many LMA (Ladies Memorial Association) and UDC members were stridently progressive when it came to gender roles. Rutherford was one of the few UDC members not to go by “Mrs.” followed by a husband’s name (she never married). She believed female students should be permitted to achieve the same educational goal as males, yet at the same time she lobbied against suffrage for women. Why should she need to vote when she already had the power to change the landscape wherever she wished?

In 1918, Miss Millie made the papers when she was thrown off a train for carrying excess baggage. It seems she was trying to force the railroad’s African-American porters to lift her trunks full of 70 400-page scrapbook volumes of white, pro-slavery Southern history.

As with much of the UDC’s teachings, Miss Millie’s impoverished logic scored high with schoolchildren and at historical tourism sites where visitors learned about the Civil War for the first time. One of Mrs. Rutherford’s most ethically acrobatic speeches was delivered at the UDC national convention in Dallas in 1916, in which she assured her adoring public: “What progress has the negro made in those fifty years? He has as a race, note that I say as a race, become disorderly, idle, vicious and diseased… There is no doubt that the negro finds his truest friends in the South, and that, too, with no social equality ideas to upset him.” Miss Millie was a maiden aunt with venom in her heart.

In time, the UDC’s commentary was taken as documentary. The perfidious arguments of Miss Millie and countless like hers caught fire, and not just in the South. In 1906, a T.H. Mann of Norwich, Connecticut wrote a letter to the editor of the Atlanta Georgian: “The best thing for the negro as well as the white man is that the relative inferiority of the negro man should be recognized definitely and clearly in every relation of life,” wrote the flatteringly named Mann, proving for the millionth time that our passions as patriots too often trample our feelings as humans. His sentiments were not unique among his fellow Northerners.

On May 20, 1895, Colonel Alfred Moore Waddell delivered the dedication speech of the Confederate Monument in Raleigh, North Carolina.

“The accepted history of the late war, like the previous history of the United States, has been written by Northern men, and a Southerner, reading it, cannot help recalling what Fronde said about history generally: namely, that it seemed to him ‘like a child’s box of letters with which we can spell any word we please. We have only to select such letters as we want, arrange them as we like, and say nothing about those which do not suit our purpose.”

Asheville NC UDC memorial plaque

This memorial in downtown Asheville, North Carolina, is gently attributed to “U.D.C.”

His complaint was an early analog to the modern lament of the “lamestream media,” and it confirms that the proponents of the Lost Cause depended on the establishment of a separate network for their memorialization. Not a minute later, Waddell followed his North-baiting with this weightless protest: “Let no man say that in discharging this duty I am digging up sectionalism. I utterly disdain any such desire or intention, and I could not if I would, for they are things now buried.” As you can see, it was a masterpiece of plausible doubletalk that allowed divisive ideas to fly under the radar, and it was typical of UDC doctrine.

Nearly every UDC monument was carefully inscribed with classical tropes and honor keywords so as not to arouse the ire of federalist busybody censors while still notifying Southern sympathizers that they weren’t alone in their simmering resentment. By hiding their platform behind the language of exaltation, they perfected a form of defensible legalese that partisans still employ on TV news talk shows today.

In Appomattox, Virginia, the site of the Confederacy’s Waterloo, more suspiciously phrased glory:

Appomattox United Daughters of the Confederacy plaque

“Still unconquered”: The United Daughters of the Confederacy’s angry plaque at Appomattox, the place of Lee’s surrender.

“Here on Sunday April, 9, 1865

after four years of heroic struggle

in defense of principles believed fundamental

to the existence of our government

Lee surrendered 9,000 men the remnant

of an army still unconquered in spirit

to 118,000 men under Grant.”

 

“Still unconquered” was a bald signal of unbowed anger, and it came attached to a few more digs justifying the slaughter and dooming America.

In other words, says the monument placed virtually in the shadow of the surrender site, the Confederacy was right to kill and they’d do it again. The UDC’s handiwork wasn’t so much an epitaph or an apology as it was a coded temper tantrum in metal.

In Monticello, Florida, their veiled poetry is a classic case of saying one thing and meaning another, painting images that suggested that everyone at Shiloh had stopped to admire how snazzy the boys looked as the Minié balls tore through them. The plaque on the Confederate memorial there tells you much of what you need to know about the United Daughters’ objectives—and the image rehabilitation they orchestrated, with almost unparalleled success, in American history.

 

Confederate plaque, Monticello, Florida

The UDC-written and -funded plaque honoring Confederate Veterans—and themselves—in Monticello, Florida

 

This post was adapted from my book Here Lies America, which is about how the United States has memorialized its past tragedies as tourist attractions. (You can buy Here Lies America here.)


Goodbye, Langtang: “And we were lucky to see it.”

It was a place where bone-grinding exhaustion gave way to transcendent awe. I wrote about it then, to myself, in my journal.

•••

I’m doing penance for beauty. There’s something perverse in doing any activity that eventually makes you trudge. I stop at impossibly breathtaking viewpoints—places that in any other country would be cordoned off and attract a million tourists a year—just long enough to pant at them and drip sweat on them. …[but] gosh, do I love rivers. And on this trek, we follow one, the Langtang Khola, all the way up. Now, at this lodge, seemingly stuck with chewing gum to the side of another terrifying mountain, we’re way, way below the heavenly brown peaks and far above the soothing rush of the tumultuous rapids. As the sun slides erotically down the V of the valley, I’m finally able to remember why I invite the pain.

I’m deep somewhere.

LangtangPorters-cropThe Earth is an angry place, really. So much of it is roiling with overpowering and terrifying unconquerability. It’s a wonder humans have survived at all. The eastern seaboard of the United States gives you such a paltry idea of how formidably wracked the rest of the planet can be. So much of it is indescribable through words or lenses; its power lies in the ability to dash your life against mighty forces, or to move your soul by means of its nearly celestial gravity.

That is as good a reason to travel as any: Visions to make your soul shift inside your breast. Events of unsharable energies.

And I never noticed it before, but the winner at the end of “The Girl is Mine” appears to be Michael Jackson.

On and on, each day more difficult than the last, until at last we’re surrounded by the grey-white spears of the Himalaya. The final walk to Langtang Village was a little over 2 1/2 hours, most of it running more or less flat through channels of mani walls, then agonizingly over the debris of a moraine, then finally here. Surrounded by daunting, sky-blotting things! It’s too much for two eyes.

langtang… I did my laundry in a metal bowl with water fed by a plastic pipe from a mountain stream. I squatted over an aluminum bowl and shaved using a hand mirror in my wooden shack. You can see sky through the cracks between boards. Stoves belch smoke. You crap in a hole the size of a business letter framed by old wood. The sun is sharp and so is the wind. Your tea comes in tin cups. Iodine in your drinking water.

… I came all this way to eat yak cheese. Four times I had to go to the [building where they sell it] before I could find someone to let me in and sell me some yak cheese. There are only about 20 buildings in this village. You’d think that word would get around that a Yank is looking to buy some yak cheese. But now I’ve got my yak cheese! It’s a lot like brick parmesan, and I love it! I’m dining on yak cheese daily in Nepal.

LangtangPeaksm… Ian and Cathy suggested we climb the mountain looming over the village. For almost two hours, every step went up. At 4000m, air becomes less meaningful to your lungs. You have to slog. And slog, and look up to check your progress pitifully, and trudge, and cry to heaven, and after a long, long time of this you realize you’ve hit a sort of zen state—thereby erasing two important hours of your life—and you’ve summited.

I took a ream of photos. They should be spectacular, but as always, they will never compete with the deep whale-call resonance of seeing it myself, vibrating in unknown places. [We] spent the first 10 minutes taking photos of each other. At the end of the third auto-timer group photo, we were breaking up when I heard a sound like distant thunder. I looked in the direction of the noise, and down the slope of Langtang was raging an immense avalanche! We all snapped photos, and hoped no one had been underneath; it’s unlikely anyone would have been. But the powder from the snow rose and spread like a perfect cloud.

After the snow settled—and misted the valley—we  could see how white the slope was where it had happened, and how comparatively dirty the neighboring slopes were. These things clearly don’t happen often, and we were lucky to see it.

We stayed up for two hours until it got too cold, and walked slowly down the 500 meters as the sun did life-changing things to the mountains and the snowy peaks. I remembered my thankfulness again. Yet again.

…Apparently, there was an earthquake here today at about 11:30am. None of us felt it. Would explain the avalanche, though, and why the glaciers are popping like rifles…

Some people dream all their lives of doing what I did today. I climbed a peak in the Himalayas and stood there, soaked with accomplishment and steeped in an awesome vista that extended higher and deeper than mathematical degrees could seem to contain.

Some people dream about the things I’m doing every day. I suppose one day, I will, too.

•••

Today is that day. I am both dreaming and crying.

This week, after nine days of trying to reach the Langtang Valley, the world discovered that it had been obliterated by a landslide caused by the Nepalese earthquake on April 25. It was “completely wiped away” and buried under 40 feet of collapsed mountain.

More than 100 bodies have been dug out so far, but 600 people have yet to be located.

2015 Satellite images by NASA/USGS

2015 Satellite images by NASA/USGS

It is painfully and sourly ironic that the things that made me feel so alive would be the same ones to cause total devastation to those genuine people who took care of me and others like me. I felt my first earthquake there and it made me feel, of all things, a euphoric gratitude.

Langtang was a place where, for me, bone-grinding exhaustion gave way to transcendent awe. And today, as I tearfully write this coda to my memories, putting an asterisk on my sense of wonder, the people I met there are gone. Langtang is now the first place I have visited that has been utterly eliminated.

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Photo by Cathy Burks Anderson

Langtang, Nepal